The first section was on the origins of cosmetics, and Hernandez explains that makeup has been used since man's beginnings. Archaic makeup was most likely used to make the wearer fearsome, to ward off evil and/or predators, most likely in the form of face-paint or a mask. Women stayed within the settlements, therefore the men were probably the ones covering themselves in makeup.
Concoctions of colored pigments and grease have been dated to 33,000 B.C., the first being mixtures of soot and animal fat. The grease makeup could be used as a skin protectant from the elements, but cave paintings also depict it being used for decorative purposes in ritual.
Pigments were discovered in the Lascaux caves of France dating back to 15,000 B.C. Among those found was manganese dioxide, a black dense color later used by the Egyptians for cosmetic purposes. (Hernandez, 12)
Yellow, black, and red were the most common colors found in archeological sites. Red was found in burial sites on bodies, also used to decorate bone, wood, and leather.
The Tyrolean man or Ötzi the Iceman, who was 5300 years old when discovered in 1991, had been adorned with tattoos and acupuncture-made scarification. During prehistoric times ornamentation and tools were coupled, as grooming aids artifacts like tweezers and razors were found along with mirrors and application tools.
The empires of Egypt reigned from 2659 B.C. to 1070 B.C., and through Papyrus writings and wall decorations they thoroughly documented their medical and cosmetic toiletries. Egyptians, also had tools for grooming. Their spiritual belief were in tune with cleanliness, and they had developed techniques for brushing their teeth, facial exfoliates, and facial masks, and insect repellant.
The toilette box of wealthy Egyptian woman often contained pumice stones, eye paint applicators, mineral powder, palettes to mix colors, and containers of colored powder. These included the green mineral malachite, red ochre used as a rouge and lip colorant, and black powder eyeliner known as kohl made from soot, galena, and other ingredients. (Hernandez, 16)
Frankincense and myrrh have anti-inflammatory properties, and mixed with oils, resin, and wax they were ancient anti-wrinkle concoctions.
Mesopotamians and Assyrians also used salves and oils for skin protectant, had shaving practices, used incense and perfumes, created hair dye from leek and cassia, and curled their beards and hair with wax. Like the Egyptians, cosmetic containers were found in the fertile crescent.
Around 2500 B.C., the Babylonians used eye, cheek, and lip cosmetics. They filled shells with purple, red, yellow, blue, green, and black colored pigments. The Pigments were lightened with the addition of burnt animal bone. Green eye paint was valued not only for it's decorative purposes, but also as a sun protectant and as a medicinal ointment for eye infections. (Hernandez, 19)
The Greeks were much more simplistic, their cosmetic toiletries included perfume, hair oil for curling, and the occasional use of rouge for the lips and cheeks. They groomed like other ancient civilizations, and used plaster or tweezers to remove hair from the body. However, rows of dots and lines appear on the faces of women in remaining wall paintings, and there are depictions of Greek women holding mirrors, therefore there are records of the importance of personal appearance.
Similar to what I posted about from reading a journal about Roman cosmetics, Hernandez writes that roman women wore much more makeup than the Greeks. They darkened their eyebrows, used eyeliner, shades of pink or red lip rogue, and used a face whitener of chalk and vinegar. Like the Egyptian cosmetics pots, and the shells of cosmetics from the Mesopotamians, the Romans also had containers for their toiletries but in the form of glass bottles and vials.
Wealthy Roman women enlisted cosmetic artists and hair stylists to help with their beauty regimen. The cosmetic artist was called the cosmatae, and the mistress of the toilette, the ornatrix. (Hernandez, 22)
During the middle ages, the fall of education, literacy, and culture gave way to the rise of Christianity. Scriptures that were interpreted condemned vanity and the use of cosmetics. Hair grooming and shaving declined, women covered their hair, and bathing became a rarity. Herbal concoctions and mixtures were maintained by missionaries, because they did not induce vanity.
The Nordic tribes of Saxons, Teutons, and Norse Vikings left record of their practices in their burial sites. Left behind were combs, jewerly, oils and pomades, and on the mummies of Vikings were remnants of tattoos. They also traded cosmetics to the British aisles by using old Roman routes.
Contact with the Arabic world during the Crusades also maintained the use of cosmetics in Europe. Perfumes, oils, spices, hair bleachers like lye, and powders made of flour all were used in Medieval court, customs that all came from the Middle-East.
Although medieval life centered around wars and politics, there was still a taste for luxury goods and fineries within royal households. Both men and women of the royal court kept dedicated barbers and cosmeticians at hand. (Hernandez, 27)
By the 15th and 16th century, the feminine beauty ideal was that of a woman with an oval face, small features, and a very high forehead. Courtesans wore platform shoes called pianelles, wore ornate wigs, and used heavy makeup to adorn their features. Pale skin and red lips were once again the desirable complexion of ladies, and because of continued trade a variety of dyes, soaps, paints, and toiletry mirrors were available to European women. The use of herbs and flowers in perfumes and scented waters were continually used as well.
Perfumed waters and other scented fluids were commonly used to clean and freshen up the home. Cleaning herbs contained antibacterial properties, which protected against infectious diseases. Popular perfumes were made from violet flowers that were pressed and mixed with putrefied lard. (Hernandez, 28)
For my next post, I'll begin at the 16th century and carry on.
Works cited:
Hernandez, Gabriela. Classic Beauty, The History Of Makeup. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing Ltd, 2013. Print.
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